Milan Fashion Week (MFW) is always the place to be seen. It’s no wonder that British fashion label, Paul Smith, chose this arena as the platform to unveil its new Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear collection. In order to create for the future, designers needed to look back at the past to help conceptualise new lines.
Hailed as a masterclass by modern sartorialism by onlookers and critics alike, the new collection was derived via an extensive deep dive into the brand’s 55-year history. Sir Paul Smith collaborated with newly appointed head of men’s design, Sam Cotton, to examine the company’s vast Nottingham archive of over 5,000 garments. As one might expect, when delving into such rich fashion tapestry, the amount of inspiration, and ideas-catalysts has produced something of tour de force for the label.
The resulting lineup is an energetic re-calibration of the brand’s DNA, incorporating re-fashioned ideas drawn from 14 distinct archive collections. The theme centres on the deconstruction of the ubiquitous suit, celebrating the internal craftsmanship and quirky British heritage that have defined the independent house since its inception.
The collection highlights several key archival revivals, most notably the return of the “inside-out” suit – a concept Smith pioneered in 1999 – reimagined here with yellow topstitching that delineates the garment’s interior construction. Another standout piece is a white Western shirt with unique angular pocket flaps, updated from a 1989 design.
Artistic storytelling also took centre stage with shirts featuring sketches by Colin Barnes, a nod to a 1978 show where Smith utilised the artist’s drawings in lieu of runway photography. The tailoring remained sophisticated yet relaxed, featuring languid double-breasted jackets with low waistlines and pleated trousers, often paired with bib shirts for a look that balances formality with contemporary ease.
Texture and pattern played a vital role in grounding the collection’s nostalgic yet fresh feel. Traditional Harris tweed overcoats were engineered for a smooth finish, while tailored hunting jackets in dark Donegal tweed introduced functional details like map pockets at the hip.
Knitwear offered a playful disruption, with archive Fair Isle designs reimagined in soft wool alpaca and styled as oversized scarves. Accessories followed suit, featuring 1980s-inspired tie patterns and handsome suede satchel-totes revived from the same decade. There is something for everyone in the new collection.
